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Soundtrack of Silence

By Andrew McCarthy

As a small boy playing alone in my yard, I sometimes imagined television cameras hiding behind trees and under bushes, filming my every move. My secret reality show (long before the existence of reality TV) pacified me and helped me feel less alone. As I grew and began to venture out into the world, I found a similar form of relief from the very specific solitude brought on by travel far from home: listening to music. But lately I’ve begun to question the curation of my encounters on the road. What exactly might I be missing by shutting out the world I’ve come to experience by retreating behind some greatest hits?

A few years ago, while in a remote village in northern Sudan, I surrendered to the solace brought on by my earbuds. Today, my overriding memory of that village (the name of which is long gone, thus proving my point) is of the Patti Scialfa song I played over and over during those few days. Nearly lost in the iShuffle of significance are the three soldiers with AK-47s and toothy smiles with whom I sat and smoked hookah in a cinder-block shed, and the old woman who made me ful medames in her kitchen and nodded with knowing pride as I sat on a three-legged stool and forced the stuff down. These incidents might well be charged with more meaning had I not arbitrarily orchestrated my experience with the comforting sound of a familiar tune that now dominates my recollection of that very particular time and place.

Luckily, just a few days later, in the northern desert not far from the ancient city of Old Dongola—now only a few crumbling and lonely pillars jutting up from windswept, shifting dunes—sleeping on a mat in the sand under a gauzy sky, I had no access to the music I yearned for to lull me to sleep. I cursed not budgeting my battery supply, and was left in deafening silence, staring up into the Milky Way. After an uncomfortable and unknowable elapsing of pliable time, with no way to control my environment or modulate my experience, I felt a sense of expansion and connection not only to my surroundings but to the entire planet and the constellations above. I was filled with a sense of continuity and  belonging that still feeds me years later.

And what might have happened had I been listening to a consoling playlist to ease my homesick ache while in the high plains of northern Spain? Halfway into a 500-mile walk along the Caminode Santiago, lonely and despairing of myself, in a field of chafing wheat, I burst into tears and dropped my cool facade. In the moment of my unexpected and unaccompanied collapse came a liberation from a lifetime of discomfort that I daresay might never have been possible had I been strutting down the trail, singing along to Bruno Mars.

There are, of course, times when I allow myself a vacation from my vacation. When I’m flying, Tom Waits often accompanies me at 35,000 feet with his melancholy rasp, my mind drifting in a reverie it only seems to achieve while gazing at the curve of the earth. But more and more, while in alien territory, I try to resist dictating how I might best experience the Patagonian steep or Saharan dunes by deciding what music I’ll filter my experience through.

I’m no longer that little boy needing pacification during a lonely afternoon, and time has shown me that my uncomfortable state is often the first indication that something big and worthwhile is on my doorstep. It is our sheer aloneness, our dependence on the kindness of strangers, our having to put ourselves out on a limb—both emotional and physical—without any mollification that makes travel truly, deeply potent. Sidestepping that, short-circuiting it by hitting play, is the last thing I’m interested in doing. So the next time I’m in Rome and tempted to turn up the Rolling Stones and tune out the sound of Italian street noise, I’m hitting the off button to let the wide world rock my socks to its unpredictable, singular, transcendent beat—even if there is a camera hiding behind the Pantheon.

 

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Barnes & Noble Union Square
In conversation with Gayle Forman
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Wednesday, March 29 at 7pm
Barnes & Noble
Vernon Hills Shopping Center
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Thursday, March 30 at 7pm
Books & Greetings
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Saturday, April 1
Texas Teen Book Con | Houston, TX

Sunday, April 2
Alamo Drafthouse | Austin, TX

Monday, April 3 at 7pm
Books, Inc Opera Plaza
Not Your Mother’s Book Club
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Tuesday, April 4 at 7pm
Book Passage
51 Tamal Vista Blvd., Corte Madera, CA 94925

Wednesday, April 5 at 8pm
Live Talks LA
In conversation with Pico Iyer
Ann and Jerry Moss Theatre, New Roads School
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Thursday, April 6 at 7pm
Elliott Bay Books
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Friday, April 7 at 7pm
Powell’s Books
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Sunday, April 9 at 5pm
Politics & Prose
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Monday, April 10 at 7pm
Boswell Books
2559 N. Downer Ave., Milwaukee, WI 53211

Tuesday, April 11 at 7pm
The Book Stall at Chestnut Court
In conversation with Betsy Bird
811 Elm St., Winnetka, IL 60093

Wednesday, April 12 at 7pm
Talk of the Stacks Series
Hennepin County Library
Minneapolis Central Library
300 Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis, MN 55401

Thursday, April 13 at 6:30pm
Parnassus Books
Hillsboro Plaza Shopping Center
3900 Hillsboro Pike #14, Nashville, TN 37215

Tuesday, April 18 at 6:30pm
Rainy Day Books
At Woodneath Library
8900 N. Flintock Rd., Kansas City, MO 64157

Wednesday, April 19 at 7pm
St. Louis County Library
With The Novel Neighbor
1640 S. Lindbergh Blvd., St. Louis, MO 63131

Thursday, April 20 at 7pm
Georgia Center for the Book
With Little Shop of Stories
Dekalb County Public Library
215 Sycamore St., Decatur, GA 30030

Friday, April 21 at 7pm
Books & Books
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Tuesday, April 25 at 7pm
Barnes & Noble
Market Fair, 3535 US-1 #400, Princeton, NJ 08540

Wednesday, April 26 at 7pm
Brookline Booksmith
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Monday, May 1 at 7pm
Darien Library
In conversation with Dani Shapiro
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